Еще 6 мая Костя Загвоздин и Саша Новосельцев смонтировали на трамплине обструганные в апреле Валерой Иринарховым доски.
Низ получился широковатым, как и кусочек средней части. Замотавшись пластырем и поскрипывая зубами, я одолел эти участки до верхнего кусочка "щели Линн Хилл", как мы окрестили это место
Пальцы влезает всего лишь на 1-2 фаланги. Щель же чуть-чуть раскрывается.
В общем, я чувствую там себя ребенком - хочется плакать от бессилия
Однако, интернет подсказывает, что техника для этого существует...
Замотка рук для трэда.
При этом пишут, что "для крэк-кламбера, лазание с пальцевым замком, так же расслабленно и безопасно, как воскресное утро"...
http://www.rockandice.com/how-to-climb/ ... que?page=2FINGER TO OFF-FINGERS CRACKS
For a crack climber, a finger lock is as relaxed and secure as Sunday morning. If you can insert your digits to the second or third knuckle and pull down on a constriction, that’s a finger lock. No camming or bracing action is necessary. This move can be made thumb-up or thumb-down, whichever feels natural.
Finger jam when the crack you hope to climb doesn’t have constrictions to lock on. The finger jam involves inserting your fingers and then torquing downward to create friction in the gap. A perfect finger jam usually feels natural and secure, but you will often need to adjust your technique to fit the unique contours of each crack. Placing your hand thumb-down is often most stable. Thumb-up is typically used to pull from the side (as in a lieback), or when it’s a more comfortable fit for the crack’s topology.
Remember: Your hand orientation will affect your transition into the next move, especially when constrained by the thumb-down version, which isn’t practical below chin level.
For cracks just a bit too fat to be secure, improvise by combining sunken fingers, finger cups, torquing your hand/fingers as a rigid unit, and sidepulls.
Tips Cracks
Cracks narrower than our fingers are tricky. Tips are the smallest and the worst. For semi-jams, squeeze in as much of your tips as you can and pull down, not out, to maximize friction. Think of this as more of a smear than a pure jam. Sometimes it helps to use two or more tips, either in the crack for more contact or as reinforcement. Keep your elbow low.
You’ll often lieback up these, or, if you can get your pinky into the crack, place your hand thumb-up and tug outward in sidepull style. Smear your boots against the edge of the crack as much as possible to move upward.
Off-fingers
This is the challenging size a bit bigger than perfect fingers and narrower than a hand jam. The solution is a finger/thumb stack. Put your thumb in the crack first, then wrap your fingers over the top to form opposition wedges and drop your elbow for torque. Vary the number of digits you place over your thumb—and depth you slide them into the crack—to fine-tune your placement. This jam feels unstable at first, but can be surprisingly positive.
A thumb cam is also an option for spanning off- fingers gaps. The thumb cam is a fat version of a finger/ thumb stack, but your thumb’s pad presses against the inside of the far edge, opposite your other fingers.
NARROW CRACK FOOTWORK
Small cracks (perfect fingers or smaller) are too thin for foot or toe jams, so you’ll have to cobble together a combination of face climbing and friction-jamming moves. Smearing and edging on the faces adjacent to the crack is the typical workaround, but when the joint offers pods and flares, you should exploit them for jams.
Although off-fingers is too skinny for a true foot or toe jam, you can manufacture a friction jam in splitters by pressing the sole-to-rand edge of your shoe into the crack with your toes pointing up. Typically, you’ll use the outside (pinky toe) side. Find a feature, squeeze in some rubber, and make it stick. For corners, you can also place the sole of your shoe on one wall and force the rand into the complementary wall, which generates friction. Stemming through a corner also works well, providing the faces offer features. In corners and offsets, try liebacking if the edges are sharp.